ANTI ROLL BAR Rolling/leaning of the car in corners can be controlled with the anti roll bar. The effect of the anti roll bar is noticed in slow corners only. Basically lower/softer anti roll bar means more grip but less steering accuracy. If you need more grip in slow corners, decrease the front anti roll bar. If steering in slow corners is imprecise, try to increase the front anti roll bar. If the car under steers in slow corners, increase rear anti roll bar. (increasing the rear means less grip in the rear. Less grip in the rear means more 'grip'* in the front thus less under steer). If the car over steers in slow corners, decrease rear anti roll bar. *When you cut grip from the rear, you change the grip balance of the whole car. You can't just get more grip at the front, because you make less grip at the rear. It is also that a soft overall anti roll bar setting gives more overall grip, but increase body roll. You must find a compromise between that, because more body roll isn't very good. Springs The spring’s settings can be adjusted for in Nm/mm. A softer spring (lower value) gives better grip but slows response time to driver input. A stiffer spring (higher value) makes the car respond more quickly to driver input, but gives less grip. If the car does not react immediate to your driver input, stiffen the front and rear springs. If the car is too nervous and overall lacks grip, soften the front and rear springs. The springs are basically linked with each other. If the car is under steering in the middle of a corner, with no gas or brakes applied, try to stiffen the rear springs OR soften the front springs. If the car is over steering in the middle of a corner, with no gas or brakes applied, try to soften the rear springs OR stiffen the front springs. Most default setups are too soft, but of course, you guessed it.... it's personal. Happy bouncing… BUMP / REBOUND Bump and Rebound is divided in Fast and Slow. The Fast Bump/Rebound settings have to do with movement of the track (bumps/curbs). Slow Bump/Rebound settings is affected by driver input (steering, braking, throttle) Bump means the upwards movement of the suspension, Rebound the downwards movement. Fast Bump (upwards) controls the suspension following bumps and curbs. It is describe fast because the damper is moving up in a rapid motion. Adjustment of the Fast Bump controls how a tire behaves on the track after bumps/curbs. The Fast Rebound settings are linked to the Bump settings. If the Fast Bump setting is changed, mostly it is good the change the rebound in a similar manner. Slow Bump controls the suspension caused by driver input. Slow Bump has effect on balance while going into and out corners. Decreasing Slow Bump will speed up how quickly a corner accepts weight transfer while transitioning (braking/steering/throttling). Slow Rebound is also linked with Slow Bump, so change it in a similar manner like the Fast Bump/Rebound. The rules for Slow Bump/Rebound settings: - If weight transfer is too fast which result in lost of grip, try to increase front and rear and vice versa. - If the car under steers in corner entry and exit, increase rear OR decrease front. - If the car over steers in cover entry and exit, decrease rear OR decrease front. Fast Bump/Rebound settings: - On a bumpy track where you lack grip over bumps and curbs, try to decrease front and rear. - If the car bounces over bumps resulting in lost of grip, increase front and rear. - If the car under steers over bumps, increase rear OR decrease front. - If the car over steers over bumps, decrease rear OR increase front. DIFFERENTIAL Differential settings can be adjusted for Power (Lock), Coast and Preload. A differential controls your wheels in corners. In corners the inner wheels rotate slower than the outside wheels. The differential settings can be changed to distribute the amount of torque to the wheels (Fwd or Rwd) for traction and speed. Differential Power (Lock) means the amount of force (as percentage) used to lock the inside and outside tires together when accelerating mostly when exiting a corner. If your car under steers (FWD cars) of over steers (RWD cars) you must decrease the power (lock). If you have no good acceleration when exiting corners, try increasing it. Try to balance it. Coast means the amount of force (percentage) is used to lock the inside and outside tires together when off of the throttle, as when entering a corner (braking). If your car is stable while braking and slightly understeer while lift off the throttle, try to decrease the coast. If you experience unstable braking and over steer while lift off the throttle, try to increase the coast. Again find a good balance. With the Pre-Load setting you can adjust the amount of lock built in before acceleration/deceleration effects take place, mostly when you are in a neutral throttle position (holding speed). If the car has a bad transition from braking-acceleration try to decrease the preload. If the car is not responsive enough from braking-acceleration try to increase preload. A good differential setup greatly improves your car balance when exiting/braking corners and on/off throttle situations. Tip: As with all the setup options only change one setting at a time, because it can affect the other. BRAKE BIAS Brake Bias is easy to understand. Bias to the front means, the front wheels will lock first while braking. Bias to the rear will be no surprise It is best if you can balance your bias on the entire track. Most people will adjust one bias for the entire track which will be a compromise for some brake zones. The profi's will adjust the brake bias constantly while driving. In simulation games I don't think there are many drivers which will actually do this during a race. Braking bias is very personally. Some drivers want under steer in the car, other like over steer. Adjust the bias exactly for your driving style. A good balanced brake bias will deliver about .1 - .3 seconds for each sharp corner. Tip: don't go back to the pits/garage to change your bias. Press [ for more front bias or ] for more rear bias while driving (or whichever buttons you have assigned) . Don't forget to remember your setting because it will be lost when you enter the garage again when you have adjusted it while driving. Another tip: You can actually see the effect of brake bias. Drive on the track and after braking press R (Replay), press the outside view button (PgUp) and watch your car from one side. Play the replay & press one of the slow motion keys (Ins or Del on keypad). REAR WING With your rear wing you can adjust the level of down force at the rear of the car. The rear is the main adjustment for aerodynamic balance together with your splitter. Choose the wing setting which is best for each track. The greater the wing setting, the more aero drag you have which slows top speed. Another indication to change your rear wing is: - If you have under steer in a fast corner (>120Km/h) try decreasing your rear wing - Over steer in a fast corner, try increasing your rear wing. Find a good combination of top speed and drag for each track. A fast track like Monza needs less rear wing. Don't forget to check your gear ratio, especially highest gear because your wing affects top speed. CASTER Caster means how much (degrees) a tire leans forwards or back at the top of the wheel. Caster is used to increase or decrease directional stability. Most drivers prefer positive caster which provides directional stability. Too much caster makes steering difficult. Negative caster requires less steering effort but the car will wander down the straights. Caster is difficult to judge. To adjust caster this are the rules: - Increase caster if steering is too soft and has too much under steer. - Decrease caster if steering is too firm and the car is unstable in fast corners. TOE IN With Toe-in at the front or rear you can adjust the degree the front of the wheels angle towards or away from each other. Toe-in is used for directional stability and initial corner turn-in. For the front wheels, the preferred setting is a slight amount of toe-out (negative setting), which helps turning in. For the rear wheels, the preferred setting is toe-in (positive setting) because toe-out creates instability. Don’t changes too much toe (positive or negative) because it slows the car down with increased rolling drag. Too much toe-in in either direction also causes under steer and tire wear. Mostly the default settings are good. Don't change too much. The rules for front Toe: - Increase opening (more negative value) if turning in is hard - Decrease opening if straight line stability is too much affected The rules for rear Toe: - Increase opening if the rear-end stability in a straight line is not good - Decrease opening for better top speed CAMBER Camber means the angle of the wheels related to the tarmac. Most times you will use negative camber. With negative camber the top of the wheels tilt towards the chassis. This results in better grip through the corners. Positive camber gives stability in straight lines and less grip in the corners. This is mostly used for off-road racing. For race-setups, your camber can be adjusted by watching the tire temperature. Tire temperatures have 3 read-outs per wheel; Inner-Center-Outer. Normally, the Inner temperature should be about 8 degrees Celsius hotter than the outer temperature on the front and slightly less at the rear tires. If you set the camber correctly, your cornering will improve. For qualify-setups when you only have to drive 2-4 laps, the front camber can be increased to give more grip in the corners. The tires won't last many laps, but you are only qualifying; who cares. Good luck with Cambers... Good luck with your own made setups
